how to make a table saw bench

Then go into to ShetchUp, load your plans, and choose the option to print. I have the same table saw and just wanted to make sure.I situated the table saw so there’s a little gap behind it to move the fence around or take it on and off.

Thank you for your plans.Great build.

Cut the tablesaw shelf out of that at 33″x 18 1/4″I downloaded the extension to get the PDF and it won’t give me the plans. Not a big deal I guess. Use 2 1/2″ screws to attach the long sides to the supports.Attach the top frame to the legs with 2 1/2″ screws. I’ll put 1×3 cleats on three sides and drop an insert made from a double layer of plywood into the opening so it is flush with the bench top.I am also thinking about doing the same thing on one of the long sides to drop in a miter saw and then cover the opening.Thanks for the recommendation! Also, make sure the front panel (B) is flush with the sides. To get clean holes, start the holes from one side, then, as soon as the pilot bit emerges through the opposite side, remove the drill and finish the hole from the other side.With the whole project complete, I rounded the edges of the parts with a 3/8-in. Please follow all manufacturer’s safety instructions and consult a professional before attempting a project you are unsure about.Bitterroot DIY is a participant participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Thanks for using my plans!I just started woodworking in the last year and I am loving it. from the edge of the scrap. I know the paid version of Sketchup includes “layout” which would allow me to export to pdf, but a free option would be great at this point.If the top frame with legs had a size 38″ maximum width how is a 36″ x 73″ table top going to sit over it or am I missing something (30″ short frame width) + (2″longest frame left side) + (2″ longest frame right ) + (2″ left leg) (2″ right leg) = 38″ width at widest point Also 2′ 9″ is 34.5″ and there is no peice you specify to cut this length, long frame piece is 33″ which leaves you short slightly on the table saw shelfThank you for the questions. Stay away from construction-grade plywood (it's usually labeled “A-C”, “B-C” or “C-D”). I had to adapt slightly for the Dewalt rack and pinion fence to work, but the basic design and most of the measurements helped me out tremendously. If you want more of an overhang, you can definitely cut it a little wider. on center to align with wall studs and drove 1/2-in. Screw the two 1x4s together and then evenly space the braces and screw them to each 1×4.

Not quite getting it. Cut out thin strips of plywood with a sharp chisel and smooth the bottom of the notch with a file.Nail a strip of wood to a scrap of plywood or OSB, 12-1/2 in. Before cutting notches, set your saw depth and make a test cut to check the depth. You don’t necessarily need a tablesaw to build the workbench – you can make all the cuts with a circular saw and miter saw – but the 10″ one is what fits in the workbench. wider than your plywood. May you please state measurements in centimetres? I thought about putting my router in this workbench but ended up leaving it off for now … might have to try that next time!any pictures ? There’s not a printable version (I can’t quite afford that software yet ), but all the info you need to build this is listed on this post!Hey! The lumber list, cut list, and plans are all listed in the post. I see that was a little difficult to read since I wrote (feet) in the description … definitely looked like you were supposed to cut them at 5 FEET long, not 5″ for the feet. This “play” in the notch makes for easy setup and knockdown and still gives sufficient rigidity.

Just built this today, although a slightly bigger version.

Double check with your saw before you attach things, but it should work if you have the same saw.I’ve been searching and searching and this is it! I guess it depends on making the right cuts to make as much use of each oneSorry about that! It's best to cut the outfeed top (G) from the same sheet as the outfeed end panel (C). Then I sanded the plywood with 150-grit sandpaper, vacuumed, and applied two coats of Minwax Wipe-On Poly to all the parts. For each notch, make several cuts no more than 1/8 in. Or any other suggestions would be great!I haven’t had any issues with the 3/4″ particleboard top. Use a straightedge to line up the miter saw fence with the extended fence. Thanks!All the dimensions are listed in the plan diagrams. Or should I make the table top 1 1/2” thick?I think dog holes would work fine in the 3/4″ tabletop, but it’s up to you. Hi Adam, that’s a great idea! I just went back and edited it. i would like to see how you mounted the router What about the dust bag for under the saw? When the project is done, they fold up and tuck away so you can park the car.

I used the original box that the tablesaw came. round-over router bit. Two feet and nine inches is 2’9″ = 12″ + 12″ + 9″ = 33″. Thanks for bringing that to my attention!I bought 11 and only used 9! I just pull out the box and dump the dust out.What an awesome build! Instead of building it from scratch in sketchup, I thought I’d see if you already had it available. You only need 11.

Also, make sure your Rockwell will fit.